From Calfskin to Cordovan: An Insider's Look at the Leathers Used in High-Quality Handmade Shoes
Handmade shoes are a true testament to craftsmanship and attention to detail. The quality of the materials used is a critical factor in the creation of a truly exceptional pair of shoes. Leather, in particular, is a popular choice for shoemakers, and various types of leather are utilized to create unique, long-lasting footwear. This guide will explore the different types of leather commonly used in handmade shoe production, highlighting their distinct properties and qualities.
Calfskin
Calfskin is the most frequently used leather for crafting high-quality dress shoes due to its softness, durability, and suppleness. Typically sourced from animals less than a year old, the term "calf leather" used to refer to hides from animals under six months old.
The process of tanning calf leather involves treating the raw hide with tannins, which are natural or synthetic chemicals that help to preserve the leather and prevent it from deteriorating. The tanning process can be done using various techniques, such as vegetable tanning, chrome tanning, or combination tanning, each of which produces a different type of leather with its own unique characteristics.
Handmade shoe craftsmen typically choose calf leather that is of high quality and has a smooth, even surface without any blemishes or defects. They may also select leather that has a certain thickness or suppleness, depending on the type of shoe they are making and the desired fit and feel.
​
Chrome-grain full-grain calfskin is a type of leather that is commonly used in the production of high-quality shoes and other leather goods. It is made from the hides of young cows and is typically tanned using chromium salts, which results in a soft, supple leather with a smooth surface.
​
The term "full-grain" refers to the fact that the leather has not been sanded or buffed to remove imperfections or blemishes on the surface. This means that the natural grain and texture of the leather is retained, giving it a unique and natural appearance.
Chrome-grain full-grain calfskin is particularly well-suited for polishing and can be easily shined using shoe polishes and creams. It is also quite durable and resistant to wear and tear, making it a popular choice for footwear that is intended to last.
​
Chrome-grain full-grain calfskin is a versatile and high-quality leather that is well-suited for a variety of shoe styles and other leather goods.Depending on the type of sanding applied,
​
​
Cow and Ox Leather
Cow and ox hides are known for their thickness and durability, making them ideal for footwear that requires a high level of toughness and resilience. These hides are often used in the production of boots that are designed for heavy use, such as work boots or hiking boots.
​
However, finding perfect hides from full-grown cows and oxen can be challenging as these animals have lived longer and have been exposed to more wear and tear. As a result, these hides may have imperfections, such as scars or blemishes, that make them unsuitable for use in high-end leather products.
​
Despite their imperfections, cow and ox hides are often used in the production of cheaper shoes. In some cases, the hides may be split down to a thickness that is comparable to calfskin. This allows manufacturers to get more leather out of each hide, making it a cost-effective choice for lower-priced footwear.
​
Although cow and ox hides are thicker and sturdier than calfskin, they still require a great deal of skill and expertise to work with. Tanners must carefully process the hides to ensure that they are soft and supple enough to be made into comfortable and wearable shoes. The final product may feature unique markings or variations in color that add to its character and appeal.
​
Cow and ox hides are a versatile and durable choice for footwear that is designed to withstand heavy use. Whether you're looking for a tough pair of work boots or a more affordable pair of shoes, cow and ox hides can offer a great balance of strength, durability, and value.
Horse Leather
Horse leather is a durable and versatile type of leather that is often used in the production of jackets, accessories, and footwear. The front part of the hide is thinner and is typically used for lighter weight items, while the strips and back of the hide have properties that are similar to cow leather. However, the pore structure of horse leather is different, which can result in a unique look and texture.
​
One type of horse leather that is particularly famous for its use in footwear is shell cordovan. This type of leather is made by tanning the muscle membrane, or shell, located under the skin of the horse's rump in a special way. Cordovan leather is actually turned inside out during the tanning process, which means that part of the grain area is left intact. This results in a leather that is extremely durable and has a shiny, dense surface.
​
One of the unique features of shell cordovan leather is that it doesn't crease like other leathers do. Instead, it develops characteristic rolls that give the leather a distinct appearance. The durability of this leather makes it an ideal choice for high-end dress shoes and boots that are designed to last for many years.
​
In addition to shell cordovan, horse leather from other parts of the animal can also be used in footwear. Horserump leather, for example, has a special character that comes from using the area above the shell. This type of leather can be used to create unique and eye-catching footwear designs that stand out from the crowd.
​
Horse leather is a versatile and durable choice for leather goods, including footwear. Its unique properties and distinctive character make it a popular choice among designers and consumers who appreciate the value of high-quality leather products.
Suede Leather
Suede leather is a type of leather that has a soft, fuzzy surface created by brushing the underside of the animal hide. It is often used in the production of men's handcrafted shoes because of its unique texture and appearance.
​
Suede leather is made from the underside of the animal hide, which is typically softer and more pliable than the top grain leather. This makes it an ideal choice for footwear that requires a comfortable and flexible fit. The softness of suede leather also allows for a greater range of detailing and design elements to be added to the shoe, such as perforations or intricate stitching.
​
One of the benefits of suede leather is that it can be dyed in a wide range of colors, making it a versatile choice for designers who want to create shoes that are both functional and stylish. The natural texture of suede leather also adds an element of visual interest to the shoe, which can help to elevate its overall design.
​
However, suede leather is also more delicate than other types of leather, and it requires careful maintenance to ensure its longevity. Shoes made from suede leather should be brushed regularly to remove dirt and debris and should be treated with a protective spray to help prevent water damage.
​
Despite its delicate nature, suede leather is a popular choice for men's handcrafted shoes because of its unique texture and appearance. From classic loafers to rugged boots, suede leather can be used to create a wide range of footwear designs that are both comfortable and stylish.
Shark Leather
Shark leather is a unique and durable material that is used in the production of men's handcrafted shoes. It is a popular choice among designers for its exotic texture and the interesting patterns that can be created with its natural markings.
​
Shark leather is made from the skin of sharks, which is known for its toughness and resilience. The skin has a distinctive texture that is created by the tiny scales on its surface, which can be enhanced or subdued depending on the treatment and finishing applied to the leather.
​
One of the benefits of shark leather is its durability. The natural toughness of shark skin makes it resistant to wear and tear, making it a practical choice for footwear that is designed to withstand regular use. Additionally, the unique texture of shark leather can be used to create intricate designs and patterns in the leather, making it a popular choice for designers who want to create shoes with a distinctive look.
​
However, shark leather is also a challenging material to work with due to its thickness and density. It requires special tools and techniques to cut and stitch, which can make it more expensive than other types of leather. Additionally, shoes made from shark leather require regular conditioning and maintenance to keep them looking their best.
​
Despite these challenges, shark leather remains a popular choice for men's handcrafted shoes because of its unique texture and durability. From sleek dress shoes to rugged boots, shark leather can be used to create a wide range of footwear designs that are both stylish and functional.
Alligator Leather
Alligator leather is a luxury material that is highly sought after for its unique texture and appearance. It is often used in the production of men's handcrafted shoes because of its durability and the exotic flair it adds to footwear.
​
Alligator leather is made from the skin of alligators, which is renowned for its toughness and resistance to wear and tear. The scales of alligator leather are larger than those of other reptile leathers, such as snake or lizard, which gives the leather a distinctive look and texture. The natural pattern of the scales can also be used to create intricate designs and patterns in the leather, making it a popular choice for high-end men's shoes.
​
One of the benefits of alligator leather is that it is available in a wide range of colors and finishes, including matte, shiny, and patent. This versatility allows designers to create shoes that are both sophisticated and eye-catching.
​
However, alligator leather is also a delicate material that requires special care to maintain its appearance and longevity. Shoes made from alligator leather should be kept out of direct sunlight and should be treated regularly with a conditioner to keep the leather soft and supple.
​
Despite its high maintenance requirements, alligator leather remains a popular choice for men's handcrafted shoes because of its durability and unique texture. From sleek dress shoes to casual loafers, alligator leather can be used to create a wide range of footwear designs that are both stylish and functional.
Ostrich Leather
Shoes made from ostrich leather are known for their unique texture and appearance. Ostrich leather is a highly durable and supple material that is derived from the skin of ostriches. The leather is characterized by its distinctive pattern of raised bumps or quills, which are a natural feature of the ostrich skin.
​
Ostrich leather shoes are typically made with high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. The leather is carefully selected and treated to ensure its durability, softness, and natural beauty are maintained. The shoes themselves can come in a variety of styles, from dress shoes to casual sneakers, and can be available in a range of colors to suit different tastes.
​
One of the key benefits of ostrich leather shoes is their durability. The leather is naturally resistant to wear and tear, making it a great choice for footwear that will be worn frequently. Ostrich leather shoes are also known for their comfort, thanks to the supple and flexible nature of the leather.
In addition to their practical benefits, ostrich leather shoes are also highly prized for their aesthetic appeal. The unique pattern of the leather gives the shoes a distinctive and eye-catching appearance, which can be a great way to make a fashion statement. Overall, shoes made from ostrich leather are a premium choice for anyone looking for high-quality, durable, and stylish footwear.
